Some of the oldest Seacoast eateries dish out what it takes to stay in business for decades

Pictures of families and generations of employees, newspaper clippings, and copies of menus dating back to 1940 sit in a case on an old wooden wall in the entryway of Warren’s Lobster House, allowing customers to marvel at the restaurant’s history. 

Warren’s is celebrating its 70th birthday this year, and it’s just one of several local establishments that have been adapting to the changing restaurant industry and the fluctuating economy for several decades.

“We’ve seen fads come and go,” said owner Scott Cunningham, who saw a push toward sautéed items years ago when customers wanted healthier food. It didn’t last long, though, said Cunningham, because people still craved fried clams.

Since he bought the Kittery waterfront restaurant in 1984, Cunningham said he has worked hard not to change. Since the restaurant is now reaching its fifth and sixth generations of customers, most of whom are families, he said it’s important to make them feel comfortable by keeping things the way they remember them.

At the same time, Warren’s has added a Facebook account, which helps it reach out to younger generations.

Bruce Belanger, owner of The Library Restaurant and Steak House in Portsmouth, started his restaurant in 1975 as a take on continental cuisine, but has since morphed it toward an authentic steakhouse. Belanger noticed more and more restaurants in the area were becoming specialized and thought The Library could thrive as a classy steakhouse.

“You have to change with the times,” said Belanger.

But, as restaurant competition has intensified with population growth on the Seacoast, Doug Zechel, owner of Saunders at Rye Harbor, says staying the course can be what makes you stand out. Saunder’s opened in the early 1960s.

“We’ve been a constant in an ever-changing landscape,” said Zechel.

The Seacoast will soon lose that constant, however, as Saunders will permanently close its doors after Labor Day. Zechel said the property recently changed hands and the new owners decided to sell.

Dips in the economy have forced all restaurants to be resourceful.

“Sometimes you just have to work hard,” said Zechel, who has operated with the smallest possible crew during financially bad times. Sometimes increasing menu prices is not an option, and taking a pay cut is necessary, he added.

The philosophy of sticking with what’s tried and true also applies at The Rosa, an Italian-American, neighborhood restaurant for families on State Street in Portsmouth.

“We try to be consistent with the way that it started since 1927,” said general manager Jerry Stellmach.

Private parties, wedding receptions and other large functions have helped keep The Rosa’s business up.

Belanger said customers are simply looking for value in a poor economy. “We tried to hold the dollar line with the changes (in the economy),” he said.
A tactic that Cunningham uses at Warren’s is to include a diverse range of prices on the menu. By offsetting expensive items with lower costing dishes, the menu stays balanced.

Advertising heavily is also important, said Cunnigham. The first expense many restaurants cut is advertising, but that’s a big mistake, he said.

“You have to have a presence,” Cunningham said.

Another key to keeping a long-time restaurant open is to retain staff members who have been around for many years.

Dining room manager Diane Sowell has worked at Warren’s for 12 years. Even though her run may be longer than average in a restaurant, she said she’s just a baby compared to other employees.

“They’re what make us successful here,” said Cunningham.

Stellmach agreed that longevity of the staff, along with consistency, has helped The Rosa, too. With longevity comes a sense of pride in the restaurant, he said.

Zechel said staying in the industry for decades requires a love of the restaurant business, raw tenacity, and true stubbornness. And you can’t discount dumb luck, he said.

“Understand on some level what you have and believe in it, whether it’s a small lunch counter or a 300-seat restaurant,” Zechel said.