urban foraging for fresh, found food

[Editor’s Note: Due to a reporter’s error, there was a mistake in the printed version of the article titled “going wildcrafting” in the Oct. 21, 2009 issue of The Wire. The article incorrectly identified the berries of the staghorn sumac as being white; the berries of the staghorn sumac are, in fact, red. Please be sure to properly identify any wild consumable before eating it.]

There’s an old apple tree that John Forti has his eye on, just across the Memorial Bridge from where he works as curator of historic landscape at Strawbery Banke Museum in Portsmouth.

“In a world that has so much waste, it’s not OK to see apples rotting on the ground when somebody could make use of them,” he said. Forti translates an extensive knowledge of traditional plant use into contemporary urban foraging. Seeking out food that now grows wild and planting heirloom varieties from the seeds, he is helping carry on a New England tradition of living off the land. Urban foraging has become part of the national dialogue on sustainability through local initiatives. Web sites are spreading the word about where people can find fruits on private and public lands or trade homegrown vegetables. But Forti prefers old-fashioned methods of foraging.

There are still branches heavy with sweet fruit on many of the 1,300 bushes at Blueberry Bay Farm in Stratham. Different varieties are organized in rows and the earliest have come and gone, but others will be ready to pick through September.

The bushes tend to yield 11 to 12 tons of berries by then. While blueberries are the most abundant crop at the farm, visitors can also cut their own flowers for bouquets and pick herbs and seasonal vegetables. Ripe blackberries are limited, so owner Ron Laurence suggests pickers come early to fill their crates.

Many crops got a slow start because of uncooperative weather this spring, but they are productive now, he said.

All are grown naturally without chemicals, and weeds are picked by hand. This, and damage from wildlife, keeps the family busy year-round. Laurence calls his investment in the property his “retirement,” but said he still works seven days a week. The gardens are meticulous, inviting and family friendly in a scenic and relaxing setting with picnic tables and a concession stand with homemade goods, including blueberry lemonade and blueberry cake.

Common Man comes to Portsmouth

Adding to Portsmouth’s already rich restaurant scene, the Common Man has opened its newest location on State Street. The new dinner destination replaces Victory, which closed in February.

It’s the second small chain restaurant to open in the Port City in the last six months, following Ri Ra Irish Pub and Restaurant, which opened in Market Square in March. The Common Man has seven locations in New Hampshire, plus several other restaurants under the same ownership.

upcoming event at Strawbery Banke highlights N.H.’s craft beers

Beer has long been considered a suitable beverage for washing down a plate of buffalo wings or waffle fries. But the magistrates of fine dining have traditionally stuck to pairing classier dishes with wine. That has changed—beer’s not just for bar food anymore.

The emergence of premiere craft beers in New Hampshire and elsewhere has exalted the art of brewing to unprecedented levels. The era of light, flavorless, commercial beers laying exclusive claim to the brewing industry is long over. Today, an array of flavors and styles are available, many of them focusing on quality over quantity.

The diversity of New Hampshire’s craft beers will be on display in Portsmouth on Saturday, Aug. 22, at Passport: A Craft Beer and Culinary World Tour. A benefit for Strawbery Banke Museum and New Hampshire Public Television, the event will match craft beers from the area with dishes cooked up by local restaurants.