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Small Foods Index
Pirate’s Booty
Written by Liberty Hardy   

Image here:
Robert's American Gourmet

If you were to stop and think for a moment about an actual pirate’s booty, you would be turned off the thought of food for good.  But in this instance, the booty in question is actually a rice and corn product made to look like popcorn. And it is a miracle for your mouth. It’s so soft and fluffy, it’s as if actual wisps of air have been captured and sprinkled with delicious cheese. It’s all organic, and it’s not actually popped corn, so there are none of those nasty kernel bits that get buried in your gums like sharks’ teeth. But beware the bottom of the bag and the cheese powder hidden in the corner like sunken treasure... if one tips the bag up to get the last bits, the full-on blast of cheesy deliciousness can induce loss of consciousness.
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Chimp Mints Endangered Species Chocolate
Written by Liberty Hardy   
Image here:
These little squares are delicious. With their minty tingle, they taste like chocolate kissed by a Christmas decoration. According to the Chimp Mints' website, the "endangered species" part of the name refers to the fact that they donate "10% of net profits to help support species, habitat and humanity." But we enjoy eating them more when we imagine they're really made out of an actual endangered species.
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Reese's Whipps
Written by staff writer   

The Hershey Company

The Reese's Whipps is a chocolate shell over a peanut butter sheath, filled with soft nougat. It has the classic Reese's peanut butter flavor familiar to fans of their Cups and Pieces, slightly tangy and softly gritty.

Texture is one of the triumphs of the Reese's Whipps, as all its components are soft, yet the whole turns out to be chewy and satisfying, as if a nougat pillow were wrapped in a cozy peanut butter blanket, then snugly tucked in with a chocolate comforter.
The name, though, is puzzling. Unlike many new candy bars which, when unwrapped, turn out to actually be two smaller bars packaged together, the name "Reese's Whipps" is clearly plural, yet there's just one bar. It's a substantial bar and there's no shame in that, but the name makes us look around for more. We're not quite sure what a "whipps," is—especially if it doesn't involve nitrous oxide—but we know it's plural.

Four stars for flavor and texture, minus 3 points for silly marketing.
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3 Musketeers Mint
Written by staff writer   

Mars, Incorporated

A mint-flavored 3 Musketeers is not a bad idea. Minty and fluffy is an uncommon combination, and 3 Musketeers is a venerable bar that hasn't seen much experimentation.

The resulting flavor is identical to a York peppermint Patty, but with a much lighter, airier texture. The chocolate skin is dark and thin, and the minty fluff is bright white.

It's a nice minty treat, but there is very little left of the 3 Musketeers in it—in a real 3 Musketeers, there's a fullness to the flavor, and an almost gamey aftertaste, both of which are satisfying in a way the mint stepchild is not. 3 Musketeers is really just a name slapped on this new, unrelated candy.
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Snickers Creme Pumpkin
Written by staff writer   

Image here:
Mars, Incoporated

Next up in our ongoing series of exposés on radically misleading Halloween-themed candy is the Snickers Creme Pumpkin. “Pumpkin creme in a Snickers!” you exclaim. “How novel! What might that taste like?”

We don’t know, and neither will you—there is no pumpkin creme, or pumpkin flavor of any kind, in this candy. As near as we can tell, the “creme” designation is meant to refer to the gooey caramel-nut puree inside the candy, as it’s not a normal Snickers inside either; instead of peanuts and a solid bar you can bite down on, its innards are a nondescript fluid, not unlike the organless goo inside a bug.

Since it’s not a Snickers and it has no pumpkin flavor, then the one defining characteristic of the Snickers Pumpkin Creme is disappointment.
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Marshmallow Pumpkin
Written by staff writer   

Image here:
The Hershey Company

Halloween is, in part, a candy holiday: buckets and bags of candy, candy of all shapes and sizes and colors, some seasonal and some tried-and-true. It’s a time when we get to try new confections that we might not be familiar with simply because they ended up in our sack.

But just because we’ll try anything at Halloween, that doesn’t excuse laziness from the candy companies. A marshmallow pumpkin sounds like a grand idea, until you discover that there’s nothing remotely pumpkin about it—it’s just chocolate-covered marshmallow. They didn’t even bother to color the marshmallow orange.

True to modern marketing form, “Marsmallow Pumpkin” is just an empty name, signifying nothing at all. Feh.
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Mary Jane
Written by staff writer   

Image here:
New England Confectionery Company

Peanuts and peanut butter flavor are a staple of the candy industry, but there is one quiet giant that has stood above them for almost a century, and she has the face of a little girl: Mary Jane.

The Mary Jane isn't just peanut-flavored; rather, it tastes, feels and looks like the candy reincarnation of an actual peanut. It's peanut sized, in a pale yellow wrapper, and inside it's tan and tender and almost earthy—eat one with your eyes closed and you can feel the sun of the heartland on your face, nearly smell the hay and hear the slow rustle of grasshoppers. It makes you think about more than the generic one-note "peanut" flavor we're used to, making you contemplate the whole peanut with its soft, airy shell, its funny, quirky shape, the mix of sun-dry and nut-oily. It makes you think about what it means to be a peanut, the funny little legume that no one respects.


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Mo's Bacon Bar
Written by staff writer   

Vosges Haut-Chocolat

Sometimes you eat a snack that changes everything, a snack that stops you cold and makes you realize that nothing is ever going to be the same.

Satin-sheen dark milk chocolate in an elegantly thin bar, the surface of the bar smooth and unbroken, with no hint of pork. Bite down, though, and bits of delicious bacon are released, each crunch like a tiny breakfast star in a rich chocolate sky. Pinprick moments of saltiness burst across the deeper field of sweetness, burst and then fall, dissolve, fade.
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Blueberry Milk
Written by staff writer   

Harris Dairy Farm

For an entire generation, having blue milk at breakfast has always been just an unreachable Tattooine heat dream, but no more. From nearby Dayton, Maine—not far, far away at all—comes blueberry milk!

Sweet, wonderful blueberry milk, not made by milking blueberries but rather by milking special cows that—actually, we have no idea how they make it, but it’s delicious. Remember at the bottom of a bowl of sugar cereal, the sweet, sweet milk that would collect there, infused with whatever Captain-Count-Lucky-Boo-Frostedness had leeched out of the cereal? The best part of the bowl, darn it, now in a bottle! That's what blueberry milk tastes like.
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Tijuana Mama
Written by staff writer   

ConAgra Foods

It’s the first thing on the label, underneath the name:

Made with pork, chicken and beef. Artficially colored. Pickled in artificially colored vinegar pickle.

Make no bones about it (usually), this is a pickled sausage, and wholly unashamed of it. It’s not a meal, it may not entirely be food, and it’s a hell of a caustic snack. Really, the only reason to buy one is if you’re standing at the checkout counter and suddenly you think, “Uh, I should get something to eat with this beer.”
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Idaho Spud Bar
Written by Paul Foster   

Idaho Candy Company, Boise, Idaho

Enjoying a bit of celebrity after having been featured on the Food Network’s “Unwrapped,” the Idaho Spud Bar is a chocolate-marshmallow creation inspired by … a potato? First manufactured in 1918, the Idaho Spud Bar is a blob of vaguely cocoa marshmallow covered with a layer of chocolate and then sprinkled with coconut, resulting in a flavor as odd as its name.
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bol de chocolat chaud
Written by staff writer   

During a recent trip to Quebec, The Small Foods Index was delighted to discover hot chocolate served in a bowl! Normally wary of simple repackaging, in this case we were entirely entertained—sure,  the hot chocolate itself was from a powder, but it was in a bowl! One could spoon it up like a chocolate meal, or pick up the bowl and slurp it down like candied miso soup.

Winter is coming, and we want to see hot chocolate in a bowl served locally. Then we want to see wine in the soda machines and frogs’ legs at KFC.
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Oreo ChocoStix
Written by staff writer   

Nabisco Oreo ChocoStix is another example of the brand recycling common to so many modern food-like products: here’s a new Oreo product, we’re told, even though it’s not a, you know, Oreo. So, what does that mean?

It does not mean this is an exotic new candy hybrid concocted in the secret Nabisco candy labs. It does mean this is an adequate chocolate wafer stick, covered in chocolate, with the Oreo name stamped on it by a team of soulless marketing people. It really doesn’t taste like an Oreo at all, nor does it capture any of the texture or experience of eating that beloved bicolor junkfood cookie—with the exception of that muddy feeling in your mouth after eating one, like you’re going to have to brush your teeth extra-hard to scrub out the Oreo-dirt; that, the ChocoStix re-creates well.
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King Size Assorted Overload
Written by staff writer   

S&S Candies

Just when you think there's nothing new under the sun—well, it turns out you’re right. While stacking an Oreo on top of a peanut butter cup might be bold, and then stacking a chocolate chip cookie on top of another peanut butter cup might be even bolder, taking a third peanut butter cup and sprinkling it with M&Ms and packaging the whole thing as a candy bar is just an affront to the gods—and with such familiar parts, it’s hard to call it innovation, either.
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Chocolate Mint Muscle Milk
Written by staff writer   

Chocolate Mint Muscle Milk has the slightly chalky aftertaste common to many protein bars and protein shakes, leading us to conclude that protein does, in fact, taste chalky.

Given that the chalky taste of pureed Power Bar is expected, Muscle Milk is really quite good, and satisfying. The Chocolate Mint version gives the impression of a shake made from some sort of reconstituted Thin Mint paste—which is to say, it’s delicious!
It even comes in a manly, grab-able, chuggable 17-oz carton which makes you feel like you bought it at a special muscle store instead of the local Gas-n-Sip.
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Cherry Mash
Written by Staff   

Chase Candy Co., St. Joseph, Missouri

When a simple chocolate-covered cherry isn't enough for you, you'd be lucky if you found a Cherry Mash. Made in Missouri, this cherry monster has been in production since 1918. It’s huge, maybe five or six times the size of a plain old chocolate cherry, a big, lumpy, indelicate chocolate meterorite.
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Milk Chocolate Vanilla Bun w/ Roasted Peanuts
Written by Staff   

Pearson’s Candy Co., St. Paul, Minnesota

We were excited about Pearson’s Milk Chocolate Vanilla Bun. Would it be shaped like a cinnamon bun? What does milk chocolate vanilla taste like? Does the manufacturer make other pastry-shaped candy bars? How did they think of such a thing?
The answer to all of these questions is “no.”
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Cup-O-Gold
Written by staff   

Adams & Brooks, Inc., Los Angeles, California

The Cup-O-Gold comes in a little paper skirt like a Reese’s Peanut Butter Cup, but on the Cup-O-Gold it seems different ... more like a kilt. This is a big, bold snack, a satisfying adventure of a candy bar.

The thick chocolate cup is textured with almond bits and itty-bitty coconut fronds, giving it just the tiniest hint of a crunch, and the creamy center is smooth, almost Cadbury Creme Egg-smooth, like white treasure.
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Rocky Road
Written by staff   

Annabelle Candy Company
Hayward, Ca

This is a spongy candy bar. Like trying to build a house on a marsh, building a candy bar on marshmallow shows questionable judgement. The cashews are little more than a fine particle sprinkle, and the chocolate is thin and treacherous. Really, there's nothing rocky about it.
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Chick-O-Stick
Written by staff   

Image here:
The Atkinson Candy Co., Lufkin, Texas

Bright orange and covered in fuzz—what could be inside the Chick-O-Stick? What, o what could it be?!

Initial hopes that there might be chicken involved are dashed after a quick scan of the label: “Crunchy Peanut Buttter and Toasted Coconut Candy.” Mmmm ... sounds edible!

The Chick-O-Stick is sweet and crunchy and fun, and very similar in its fundamental flavor to the inside of a Butterfinger, as well as having that same mega-orange color. Our sample stick was a little hard, but to be fair it had been in the car a while.

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Diet Coke Plus
Written by staff   
Sitting on the shelf next to the regular Diet Coke is a bottle with a bright teal cap and a fluorescent yellow sticker that reads “New Item.” So you think to yourself, “If I’m already planning on having a Diet Coke, why not go for the one with vitamins and minerals?” The label on a 20-ounce bottle says it will give you 30-45 percent of your daily value of niacin, vitamin B6, vitamin B12, magnesium and zinc. Fantastic! It will help you fight off a cold while eating the lining of your stomach!
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Nestle Butterfinger Stixx
Written by staff   
If you were thinking that you liked the taste of Butterfingers but  find them dauntingly heavy and dense, then Nestle Butterfinger Stixx presents a delightful alternative. Each stixx (Stix? Stik? Pokey?) is light and pleasant, containing Butterfinger-flavored "Candy Crème" injected into a wafer tube and then covered in chocolate. It tastes just like a Butterfinger, but without the experience of having the disturbing, oily orange Butterfinger flake compacted into your teeth all afternoon.
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Ritz Chips
Written by staff   
Ritz Chips are Ritz Crackers re-imagined as “chips.” While we generally frown on such brand recycling, the result is yummy.
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Java Juice Black Gold
Written by staff writer   
Java Juice is weird: .5 oz. of high-strength coffee extract fluid in a slim little bag, ingredients just coffee and water. The mind reels—surely you can’t make holy coffee by drizzling black fluid into tapwater?! Surely coffee must be “brewed” in a quasi-mystical transformation!
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Wonka Double Chocolate Donutz Candy
Written by staff   
Candy donuts?! Mama mia!
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Dove Cookies: Mint Chocolate Serenade
Written by staff   
Dove’s new cookies tumble out of their layers of wasteful packaging like babushka dolls, the 15 tiny cookies sealed in 3 airy plastic tubs stacked inside an ample squarish box.
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The Cool Dog
Written by staff   
The Cool Dog—manufactured by Cool Dog, Inc., of Shirley, Mass.—is creamy, yummy, strange and fun.
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Jazz Diet Pepsi Black Cherry French Vanilla
Written by staff   
In marketing, consistency is very important—so if you’re going to have a  black-cherry-French-vanilla-diet-cola called “Jazz,” then the label should accurately reflect the confusion and nausea that these words elicit. Pepsi’s “jazz” label does just that, depicting a torrent of brown effluent cascading into a foamy cesspool full of red cherries, all topped with a tacky purple ribbon swirling across the front and the double logo of “Diet Pepsi” and “Jazz” puzzlingly intermingled.
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Hershey's Kissables
Written by staff writer   
The candy industry will go to extraordinary lengths to avoid having a new idea, and Hershey’s Kissables is a great example of that—tiny Hershey’s Kisses with colorful M&M candy coatings. Cute as a button!
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7-Eleven Buffalo Chicken Go-Go Taquito
Written by staff writer   
For 7-Eleven, the appeal of tube-shaped foods is clear—like hot dogs and sausages, tube-shaped foods can rotate endlessly on the rollers under the heat lamps, remaining ever-warm without actually cooking. The appeal to the consumer is less clear.
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Ben & Jerry's Chunky Monkey Milkshake
Written by staff   

My mother always said, “Beware of novelty beverages packaged in tiny bottles/cans. Just because they’re expensive doesn’t mean they’re not sickening.”

Although I’ve found this to be a great rule of thumb, thank heavens it doesn’t apply to Ben & Jerry’s Chunkey Monkey Milkshake, which is delicious and refreshing, even if there are only 8 tiny ounces of it!
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Starbucks Chocolate Chocolate Cupcake $1.50
Written by staff   

The Starbucks Chocolate Chocolate Cupcake is a good cupcake, rich and moist and chocolatey, mmm-mmm!

But no chain store baked good could ever live up to the promise made by that delightfully dark, curly head of chocolate shavings. Look at it! It’s so dear! Like a fuzzy Angora bunny or a soft chinchilla, this cupcake’s darling looks are a brilliant bit of marketing not really supported by what’s inside.

 

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