Greuner Veltliner is Austria's national grape and has a history dating back to plantings in 1203 by monks in that region. I fell for it the first time this past winter as a cocktail wine, but in past weeks I have been experimenting with food pairings. Its genteel structure is refreshing and complex, making it a good mate for a wide variety of foods.

The wine is a collection of three distinct flavor segments that meld together in an overlapping manner. Stone fruit (specifically peaches and apricots), minerals and a spicy creaminess all work exceptionally well within the same sip. The wine is light yellow with a green tinge to it. Some of the complex structure comes from the fact that the de-stemmed grapes are gently crushed, then allowed to stay in contact with the juice at a controlled temperature for 24 hours. This allows the character of the skins and seeds to infuse with the juice. The wine is medium or off-dry, with fruit making a splash on your tongue. It stops short of being sweet, but is round enough to go well with saut??ed pork or veal. This is a great summer wine.

Craig Pierce, clubhouse manager of Baker Hill Golf Club in Newbury, can be reached at

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