Gugal Côtes-du-Rhône, 2003 vintage
price: $13-$14
suggested food pairings: chili, stewed red meats, grilled duck or venison

This is an old stand-by, worth revisiting for the simple reason that it tastes good from year to year, but occasionally tastes great. I once knew a Brazilian chef in South Carolina who never got far from this stuff—he once was hospitalized, and carried two bottles in his bag just in case he was kept overnight. This particular vintage is one of those great years for Guigal, and this wine has even attracted a score of 90 from Robert Parker. It’s no secret that he is a fan of Guigal, but you just don’t see 90s from him on wines in this price category that are produced at the volume of three million or so bottles each year. It appears that one of the long-standing best values from Southern Rhône just got even better.

Guigal is among the most respected Rhône houses in existence. Creating wines from both the northern and southern Rhône valleys, Guigal is located in a chateau in Ampuis that has buildings in use today that date back to the 1400s. Guigal has gone to great lengths to constantly improve their understanding of wine and winemaking, and their centerpiece is this chateau. A better textbook chateau there never was, complete with its own barrel cooperage.

The wine is an extracted purple tinged red with a nose of spiced fruit and a hint of gamy leather. It is mostly Syrah, with Grenache and Mourvedre added. The Syrah shows dusty dark cherries, mixed with red berries and a plummy roundness that is more mouth feel than distinct plum flavor. Spicy oak pops in and out throughout the unfolding taste profile. More power than finesse, the wine still has a great acid and tannic balance that tames the bold flavors enough to create a long, enjoyable finish. This is a big mouthful of wine for under 15 semolians. Buy two in case they keep you overnight at the hospital.

Craig L. Pierce can be reached at craig_l_pierce[at]hotmail[dot]com.