This South African winery is the "fun label" of the well-known South African winemaker Charles Back. I've spotlighted several examples of this line in this column over the years. His play on words labeling (goats-do-roam instead of Cotes-du-Rhone) is very appropriate because the wines do indeed taste quite French. For this label, he's added "in Villages" to draw attention to a Namibian charity project he and his goat herd have become involved with. Buy a bottle to read the story on the label alone.

The wine is a blend of four varietals, the primary being Sauvignon Blanc, which grows quite well in South Africa. A lemon floral nose and straw yellow color make a pleasing first impression. Although it drinks dry, there's a fullness... no, a plumpness, to the mouth feel that is rather complex. It's almost a buttery peach impression that stops short of reaching a velveteen level by a dose of new oak and an elegant citrus infused acid. His stray goats did a fabulous job of picking the right grapes to go into this bottle of wine-there's a whole lot going on for the price. Buy two.

Craig Pierce, clubhouse manager of Baker Hill Golf Club in Newbury, can be reached at This email address is being protected from spam bots, you need Javascript enabled to view it