Edmeades Mendicino County Zinfandel, 2003 vintage
price: $14-$16
suggested food pairings: grilled red meats, hearty stews, blackened finfish from swordfish to salmon

The Edmeades family planted 24 acres in vines in the Anderson Valley in the 1950s. The neighbors scoffed and warned against the family plan to begin a vineyard, to such an extent that the founder erected a sign at the vineyard that read “Edmeades Folly.” No one today thinks a winery in the Anderson Valley is a bad idea. This Zinfandel is one of several Zins the winery makes, and the Zinfandel line accounts for two-thirds of Edmeades awards each year. I would be willing to bet this one is going to rack up a few medals. Now part of the Kendall-Jackson wine group for several years, the wine’s exposure to the marketplace continues to improve with each passing year. 
This is a saucy, “hot” Zin at 15 percent alcohol. One glass of this is like two glasses of some of the other wines on the shelf. It’s important to note that the labeled alcohol content is allowed to have an error margin of 1.5 percent either way, so this could easily be as high as 16 percent. Bang for the buck aside, it’s a complex wine at this price, balanced proportionately if not harmonious. In fact, the wine is a bit of a funhouse ride. Mature fruit from mature vines show up on the front of the mouth immediately, then give way to a tart raspberry acid that thins out the powerhouse fruit and sets up the tongue for an oaky tannin finish. Echoes of the tart berries and raisined fruit reassert themselves in boomerang fashion. Each phase of the mouthfeel is distinctly different and altogether enjoyable. Zinfandel groupies are gonna love this. 

Craig Pierce, clubhouse manager of Baker Hill Golf Club, can be reached at This email address is being protected from spam bots, you need Javascript enabled to view it .