Alois Lageder Pinot Grigio, V. delle Dolomiti, 2004 vintage
Price: $15
Suggested food pairings: Finfish and shellfish, roasted fowl, lighter bodied cheeses, herbed pasta salads

The estate from whence this wine came has been in the Lageder family for 150 years or so. Located in northeastern Italy, in the Alto Adige area of Southern Tyro, close to the Austrian border, it’s one of those crossover areas where cool weather German and warm weather American varietals can grow and produce wine worthy grapes. Since it’s Northeast Italy, the pinot grigio does better here than anywhere, and this wine is a fine example of that truth.

Pinot Grigio has become a bit of a chameleon in the wine world. It is traditionally a low alcohol content, light, herbaceous white with just enough acidity and fruit to make it more interesting than water. It was something Italians quaffed at lunch or while mowing the lawn for refreshment. It is quickly becoming something much more interesting.

This particular label has a 12.5 percent alcohol content—average to high for a white. The wine was also matured on its lees (the spent yeast cells leftover from fermentation), which is traditionally a tactic used to create more supple (and more expensive) chardonnays. The surge in pinot grigio’s popularity is bringing with it winemakers who want to show off with the varietal. I’m buckled in, glass in my chubby little hand, ready to see where this ride goes. So far, I like it.

Pale yellow with a shimmering green edge, the nose shows a honied citrus element tinged with spice. Fruity roundness swaddles the tongue with an orange zest edge to the ripe and juicy mouthfeel. Peach and nectarine impressions are present, but aren’t allowed the time to make this a fruit bomb through the intervention of a crisp, clean, citrus laced acid. This is my first experience with a pinot grigio possessing a defined, lengthy finish. There’s a lot going on here for 15 shekels. Buy two.

Craig Pierce is a sales and marketing representative for The Martignetti Companies of New Hampshire. He can be reached at craig_l_pierce[at]hotmail[dot]com.