While it might not fit in a Christmas stocking, a good saucepan or stockpot makes a great holiday gift. Choosing the right pan, however, can be a little daunting. There seem to be hundreds of different sizes, shapes and styles to choose from, but there are a few specific characteristics to look for.   

size
Before looking at the quality and craftsmanship of a pan, sneak a peek into your intended’s kitchen and think about size. Saucepans are generally a little wider than they are deep (if they are much wider than they are deep, they are a skillet or sauté pan), while stockpots are generally a bit deeper than they are wide. Saucepans can be either straight sided or tapered, while stockpots are most often straight sided. Saucepans are further distinguished by the presence of a long, straight handle, while stockpots, which are bigger and require more leverage, will usually have two small handles on either side.

Saucepans range in size from 2 cups all the way up to 8 quarts (up to 12 quarts in professional kitchens), while stockpots will range from 6 to 20 quarts (up to 20 gallons in professional kitchens).
Some recipes may begin with the simmering of a large quantity of liquid, while others may begin with the gentle sweating of a single shallot. Different cooking techniques, along with other factors, will determine which type and which size pan to choose. 

Ideally, a well-equipped kitchen would contain several saucepans ranging in size and depth. Realistically, however, a home cook may only be able to purchase one or two, and in this case, mid-sized is the way to go. In addition to sauces, mid-sized pans (2 to 4 quarts) are ideal for preparing small batches of vegetables, such as steamed broccoli, glazed carrots, or even a modest batch (four to six servings) of mashed potatoes. 

Stockpots, on the other hand, are the 18-wheelers of the kitchen, designed for holding a quantity of liquid and intended to withstand long, slow simmering. A 6- or 8-quart pot is sufficient for preparing soup or for boiling a more worthy batch of potatoes (we’re talking Thanksgiving or Christmas), while a 3- or 5-gallon pot is good to have on hand for boiling half a dozen lobsters or simmering, say, a brisket.

construction
Several metals are used in the construction of pots and pans, but the most common are aluminum, copper, stainless steel and cast iron. Each may be used as the sole material for construction or in combination with one another, and each boasts a different set of characteristics. The main characteristics to consider are heat conductivity, durability, reactivity, and ease of maintenance.  

Heat conductivity refers to the metal’s ability to react quickly to changes in temperature.  Metals with good heat conductivity will heat up and cool down quickly (great for bringing liquid to a boil quickly) but are more prone to scorching, while metals with poor heat conductivity may take a few minutes to heat up or cool down, but they will hold a steady temperature and are great for a slow, steady simmer. Durability refers to the metal’s strength and sturdiness. Reactivity refers to how the metal reacts with the acids in food, and ease of maintenance refers to how easy the metal is to clean and care for.

Aluminum, which comes in two forms—pressed, and hard-anodized—is an excellent heat conductor but, in the pressed form, is one of the softest metals and prone to warping.  Pressed aluminum is also highly reactive to the acids in foods, while hard-anodized is stronger and non-reactive but can wear out with excessive harsh scrubbing or machine washing (hard-anodized aluminum has been dipped in an acid bath while being treated with an electro-magnetic charge, which leaves the metal very hard and relatively non-stick). Copper is very soft and highly reactive, but is an even better heat conductor than aluminum. Both aluminum and copper pans are often lined (clad) on the inside with either tin or stainless steel to eliminate reactivity and to prevent warping (a pan constructed of two metals forged together in layers is referred to as multi-clad).  Stainless steel is extremely hard and durable and is non-reactive. Unfortunately, it is a very poor heat conductor. In the same way that copper and aluminum are lined on the inside with another metal, stainless steel is commonly clad on the underside or inner core with copper or aluminum to increase heat conductivity. Cast iron is very durable, but is a poor heat conductor, is highly reactive (it is sometimes coated with enamel to eliminate reactivity), and is very heavy.

In a professional kitchen, chefs use a range of pots and pans.  Most restaurant kitchens have a stash of pressed aluminum saucepans and stockpots (and skillets, too) because they are relatively inexpensive, are light weight, and conduct heat so well. Having a few pans that will quickly bring water to a boil—for blanching vegetables or for a pasta station—is essential, but these pans do warp and need to be replaced every so often.

Probably the ideal choice for the home cook would be stainless steel lined with either copper or aluminum (or both). The heat conductivity from the copper or aluminum core means you can get the pan hot enough, quickly enough, to sear meat or caramelize vegetables for a sauce or soup, while the stainless steel will temper the conductivity to prevent scorching and to allow for long, slow simmering. They will never warp, are non-reactive, and are easy to scrub clean on those occasions when they do scorch. Hard-anodized aluminum is a good second choice. That being said, I personally have a fondness for cast-iron pans coated with enamel; it may take a while to get them hot enough for searing meat or caramelizing vegetables, but they are great for braised dishes—like coq au vin or brandade—that require that long, slow simmer. They also have a substantial heft, which I find comforting (but which some folks might find cumbersome), and they look really cool (I feel like I’m cooking in Europe when I use these pans, particularly the Dutch ovens, but that’s a whole other subject). Whatever you do, avoid Teflon coated pans at all cost (except for a small omelet pan, if you like). The Teflon coating does not stand up to any kind of high-heat searing and will chip and peel away over time.  

In addition to construction material, there are additional design criteria to consider when choosing a pan. Whatever the material, a pan should have some heft and balance, and should have solid, well attached and heat resistant handles. Plastic handles are fine, as long as they are composed of one of the newer composites that can sustain a little heat and will resist chipping and cracking. Most premium brands feature stainless steel handles. 

what feels right
Of the dozens of lines of cookware on the market, a few stand out as leaders in the field.  All-Clad, Kitchen Aid and Calphalon are all highly respected brands that feature a multi-clad of stainless steel with a complete aluminum core. Other top of the line multi-clads include Viking (stainless steel with complete aluminum core), Faberware (stainless steel with aluminum disk base), Cuisinart (stainless steel with complete aluminum core), and Emerilware (stainless steel with aluminum and copper disk base). Kitchen Aid and Calphalon also offer lines of hard-anodized aluminum cookware that both fare well in ratings, while Le Creuset is the premier producer of enameled cast-iron. Once you have established your criteria, compare prices and find the one that best fits both your standards and your budget. Expect to pay upwards of $50 for saucepans, and upwards of $100 for stockpots. Bargains can be had online and at discount stores like TJMaxx and Marshall’s, which will sporadically carry random brands and sizes. Most of the above major brands also offer savings with the purchase of a complete set. A basic set will include a couple of mid-size saucepans, a couple of skillets, and a stockpot. 

Ideally, the final decision would take place in the store. The best way to decide on the right pan is to actually see it and touch it. Hold the pan in hand as if it were being used on the stove top. Does it feel as if it would tip and spill easily or does it feel steady and well-balanced? Does the handle fit well in hand and feel like an extension of the arm? 

Of course, the most important thing to consider is the gift recipient’s needs. Did your snooping reveal a size and style of pan that’s noticeably absent from his or her collection, or a pan that’s due for an upgrade—like that green, Teflon-coated saucepan with the barely-attached handle that’s been around since college and has been used to heat up on too many cans of Campbell’s chicken soup? And just to be extra generous, let your gift recipient know you’ll be happy to offer your services as a taster when the new gift is put to use.