The Habanero Salsa at Loco Coco’s is spicy, but it’s not as explosive as the restaurant’s growth since it opened three years ago, in October 2004, when the Kittery business introduced authentic Mexican food to Southern Maine. In July, Loco Coco’s celebrated the opening of its latest expansion. High ceilings, colorful decor and the bump of Bachata music greet customers as they enter the expansive new dining room. In the back, a thin curtain blocks the view into the old restaurant space, where construction is underway on an adjunct bar. When the work is finished in November, the Loco Coco’s facelift will be complete. But, owners insist that a few things will stay the same: a welcoming atmosphere, consistent quality and the fiesta de flavor.   

Owner, manager and sometimes chef Luis Valdez was born in Mexico and immigrated to the United States in 1979. He first settled in Los Angeles and eventually became a flight attendant. This position encouraged his knack for hospitality and customer service. Valdez and his business partner, Mona Robinson, recently sat down with The Wire over a taco salad with grilled shrimp and a plate of enchiladas verdes in the new dining room. Valdez has dreamed of opening his own restaurant for a long time.

“It was a passion of mine,” he said. In New England, the market was ripe for authentic, affordable Mexican food. “There is a need for a restaurant like this in general, and there was no such thing in New England,” Valdez said.

“We started very small, and the intimate, hometown feeling is what we continue to strive for,” Robinson added. “Luis is a master of hospitality. He loves to treat people well and cook for them. He takes pride in the food, the quality and the consistency.”

Valdez chose the site at 36 Walker Street in Kittery because it was close to Portsmouth, highly visible, easily accessible and had plenty of parking. A bit removed from the Portsmouth restaurant scene, which seems to have as many eateries per square foot as the Fox Run Mall food court, Loco Coco’s continues to thrive, despite competition from across Memorial Bridge.
“Portsmouth is heavily saturated with fine dining restaurants,” Valdez said. Loco Coco’s offers something different—a casual, funky atmosphere, infused with a passion for quality cuisine.   

The menu features a blend of Mexican and Californian influences, according to Valdez. It includes several family recipes, along with others picked up during his journey from Mexico to Maine. Employees have contributed their own family recipes, too. According to Valdez, the carne asada burrito is the most popular dish, but fish tacos and chicken lime salad have also done well.  

The taco salad with grilled shrimp came courtesy of head chef Miguel Castelan. Romaine lettuce, grilled shrimp, rice, beans, jack and cheddar cheese, fresh salsa, guacamole and sour cream are served in a crisp shell, almost like fried dough, but crispier. A prerequisite before diving fork first into the large salad is a trip to the salsa bar. The salsas are made fresh each day and range in flavor and spiciness.

The enchilada verdes is served with chicken or cheese and needs no added spice. It’s drizzled with homemade tomatillo sauce that’s hot enough to send you straight to a cup of the homemade limeade.

“We were almost forced to expand because there were lines out the door,” Robinson said. Before the renovation, Loco Coco’s could seat 22 customers. The new space added enough room to seat 55. When the bar opens, an additional 40 to 45 seats will be available. “We haven’t regretted it,” Valdez said, “the week we opened, we were still full.”

In addition to more seating, the new space also benefits the kitchen. With more room to operate, the chefs have introduced new dishes, including the Portobello mushroom quesadilla. Other new dishes on the way will be “leaning more towards vegetarian,” Valdez said. But regardless of what the ingredients are, Valdez promises to “keep it authentic and keep it fresh.”
When the bar opens in early November, the drink list will include homemade margaritas with fresh squeezed limes, mojitos with fresh mint, caipirinhas and sangria. The bar will also feature a small kitchen, which will offer several small plate dishes, or tapas. This menu will allow the chefs to experiment with authentic dishes and add more spicy ingredients, Valdez said.

According to Valdez and Robinson, diners seek out good Mexican food. They’ve had repeat customers from as far away as Exeter, Manchester and Nashua. “They know there is the passion,” Valdez said.

Once the bar opens, Loco Coco’s will be open seven days a week.