I love Wolf Blass wines. I was introduced to them 15 years ago by a chef who went by the name Wolf, and I supposed it was his version of ego talking when he recommended the label. Delightfully, he was right to recommend it, and two or three of their offerings instantly went on our wine list. I have intermittently offered them wherever I have worked since then, always with reasonable success. Year in and year out, their prices stay comparatively low and the quality stays well above average.

Beringer, of U.S. fame, and Wolf Blass, of Australian fame, merged to become Beringer Blass Wine Estates several years ago. Theirs was the first billion- dollar wine deal in history, and I negatively expected big changes when it happened. I was right about changes-but they came about in a positive manner. Like most large operations with vast resources, the merger has allowed them to specialize both in terms of quality-to-price ratio and in their overall ability to bring great niche products to market.

This merlot exemplifies the benefits of a billion-dollar deal for consumers. Fresh, slightly underripe plum flavors and aromas abound. The cranberry tinges to the deep brick-red color are appropriate mates to the bracing acid on the tongue. Tart red cherries dance with less-than-shy vanilla wisps of smoke throughout, and it's all draped with an earthy cocoa-dusted chocolate sheet. It reminds me of the long seventh-grade kiss I didn't have to steal from the red-headed girl I'd chased the year of sixth grade....

Craig Pierce is club house manager of Baker Hill Golf Club. He can be reached at This email address is being protected from spam bots, you need Javascript enabled to view it