price: $11-13

suggested food pairings: burgers and ribs, simply prepared lamb or game meats, medium sharp cheeses

We pour the Smoking Loon Merlot by the glass at the club, so when I passed their cabernet in the store this morning, I decided to give it a whirl. It was actually on sale for $9.99, but I'd have been just as happy about this wine at several dollars more.

Smoking Loon is a newer "hip" label from an old California winery-Sebastiani, to be exact. They have a 100-year-plus tradition in American winemaking that puts them in the top echelon just by virtue of their staying power, and they offer a wide range of labels. I have Sebastiani wines on our list that sell for under $25 a bottle, and one that goes for nearly $100 a bottle. Both are excellent examples of their category.

A mouth-watering cherry and watermelon nose underscored by a woody, black pepper spice invite the first slurp. The inky purple hues and dripping wax legs further tease you to tip your glass. Overripe cherries, tart cherries, and soft black raspberry flavors blanket your tongue up front, then are cordially dismissed before the finish by the spice, acid and tannins that define the comfort zone of a competent cabernet. If you're buying for more than two people, better buy two bottles-this stuff goes down fast.