Ramon Bilbao Rioja Tempranillo, 2000 vintage

price: $11-13

suggested food pairings: Wood-grilled anything, sharp cheeses, game meats

There is no better place to grow Tempranillo grapes than Spain, and there is no better place to grow them in Spain than the Rioja region. Tempranillo is recognized as Spain's "noble, or most-prized, grape. It's oft compared to cabernet sauvignon, but recent research gives it more of a pinot noir heritage. After having a great glass of Tempranillo, you'll see the argument for either side. This offering from Ramon Bilbao is a fabulous example of the breed. It's a crianza, a Spanish term indicating a minimum of two years' worth of aging with at least six months of that aging in oak. This wine actually spent well over a year in American oak after a long stainless steel fermentation, then nearly another year in the bottle before release.

Tempranillo ripens early (temprano means "early" in Spanish), so my theory is that it gets the best sort of attention. The cellar rats (workers) haven't made red wine for eight or nine months, and they're juiced (pun intended) about doing well by these dark, thick-skinned grapes. Having made wine commercially before, I can attest to the excitement level that fills a winery when the favored fruits come into the yard. Everyone is on their toes. The folks who made this wine could've danced ballet judging from the flavors and aromas in my glass right now.

Distinct scents of black raspberries, coconut and toasted oak waft from the garnet-colored wine. The determined legs are viscous yet sleek. The first sip brings a pinot noir-esque velvet punch of berry, plum and cherry fruit that is quickly, but respectfully, upstaged by a cedar/spruce tannin. A spicy "cabernet wannabe" acid then takes control of your mouth-mojo (yes, I just invented that term, right here, right now), during-stay with me here a little longer-the beginning of the finish. I'd love to tell you about the end of the finish, but just like the movie you haven't seen or the book you haven't read yet, I don't want to ruin it for you. Buy a bottle, experience it for yourself, then email me with your take on the finish....you won't be disappointed (besides, e-mail from readers is less frequent in the summer and I feel abandoned).