I hate to gloat, but for those of you who opted to forgo the chilly rain and wind this past Saturday, you missed one helluvah show at the Portsmouth market. In addition to fall’s usual suspects of root vegetables, squashes, gourds, hearty greens, and apples, this week’s harvest included colorful peppers of every size and spice range, red chard, rainbow chard, baby lettuces, mustard greens, basil, cilantro, corn, watermelon,  red cabbage, green beans, yellow wax beans, shell beans, green and purple kale, ripe tomatoes, potatoes, beet greens, eggplant, salad turnips, baby leeks, colorful blossoms, and so much more. Even the farmers themselves seemed a bit surprised by the bounty.

Normally, the temperature dips low enough in September to at least prevent further growth, and light frosts in early October put an immediate end to any of the more fragile vegetables and herbs that still manage to hang on. This year, not only have we thus far enjoyed the absence of even a light frost, but the unusually warm fall actually facilitated an unexpected growth spurt.

“I looked at my basil and said, ‘Hey, you shouldn’t be here right now,’” says Kate Sullivan, of Willow Pond Community Farm/Apple Annie in Brentwood. Garen Heller of Back River Farm in Dover says this final flourish somewhat makes up for what he refers to as “that rancid start to the season,” and Jen Wiggin of Wake Robin Farm in Stratham says, “I think the vegetables are hurrying up while they still have a chance.”

John Wakefield of Shagbark Farm in Kensington has come to expect the unexpected when it comes to farming. Even during what would be considered a normal season, the farms will vary wildly in their offerings just by virtue of climate, he says. It might not seem that the farms, which are spread out over a relatively small 30 miles, would differ all that much, but the temperature in Kensington, where Wakefield’s farm is located, can be as much as 10 degrees lower than the temperature in Stratham, and that means they are technically in different climate zones, says Wakefield. Even Dover, which is only 12 miles from Stratham, can vary by up to 5 degrees on average. By next week, says Wakefield, one or two of the farmers may have experienced a frost, while others might not. Those farms that don’t experience a frost by this Saturday predict another week of post-season bonus offerings (cross your fingers).

On another note, apple cider has finally hit the market. Although neither of the apple vendors—Apple Annie of Brentwood and Nottingham Orchards of Nottingham—are able to sell cider at the market (due to high demand at their own farm stands), Barker’s farm, of Stratham, is selling gallon jugs of the seasonal elixir. After you’ve guzzled some right out of the ice cold jug (use a glass if there are roommates or family members involved), try making a batch of apple cider sorbet. This might seem counterintuitive now that leaves are turning, air is crisp, and dusk arrives earlier each day, but a dish of cider sorbet makes the absolute perfect finale after a hearty stew or a succulent roast.

Sorbet is generally made only with fruit and sugar syrup. Although pectin, gelatin, or egg whites are sometimes added to give a sorbet body, dairy is definitely not part of the mix, as it is with sherbet. The term sorbet can also be used to describe non-fruit versions, such as chocolate, espresso, and tea, as long as there is no dairy (the terms “granita” and “ice” are also used to describe these types of frozen concoctions). 

The recipe that follows is a purist’s version, with only three ingredients—water, sugar and cider—and can be frozen in an ice cream maker or in a bowl in the freezer (this method requires a bit of vigilance).
 
To make a small batch (about one quart) of cider sorbet, start by making a simple sugar syrup. Bring to a boil 1 1/3 cup water, stir in 3/4 cup sugar and let the mixture boil for three minutes to thoroughly dissolve the sugar. Remove from the heat and let the mixture cool to at least room temperature. Combine the cooled syrup with 3 cups cider.  If using an ice cream maker, freeze the mixture according to package instructions.  Otherwise, pour into a stainless steel bowl or pot and place in the freezer. Stir the mixture at least every half hour, being sure to scrape the sides to loosen and incorporate the thin layer of frozen cider that accumulates between stirrings. Work quickly and try not to have the mixture out of the freezer for more that 30 seconds each time. The more frequently the mixture is stirred, the smoother and less icy it will be. After three or four hours, the mixture should be fairly thick and slushy. At this point it should be left to freeze without stirring. Allow at least three or four more hours for the sorbet to freeze thoroughly. Serve with your favorite cookies.