Whether you’re familiar with that childhood ditty or not, there’s no denying the fact that beans are a glorious vegetable, and they’re in full supply at the farmers’ market these days—and will be for weeks to come, thanks to a judicious staggering of crops by almost all of the farmers.

Beans fall into one of two categories: snap or shell. Snap beans (sometimes referred to as “edible-pod” beans) are beans that are harvested at the immature stage and consumed in their entirety, pod and all. The most common, of course, is the green bean, but other popular varieties at the market include yellow wax beans, purple wax beans and Romano beans (a broad, flat green bean).

Shell beans are any bean harvested at the mature stage and removed from the pod. They include fava beans, lima beans, chickpeas, soy beans and many others, fresh or dried. The shell bean you’ll see the most of at the farmers’ market is the mottled pink bean known as the cranberry bean (often, when people use the term “shell bean” they are referring to this bean in particular). Later in the season, Meadow’s Mirth Farm of Kensington will be offering dried shell beans such as pintos, soybeans, “beer friend” beans and yin yang beans.

In terms of preparation, the possibilities are endless. For snap beans, snap or snip off the stem end and rinse well (some folks remove the tapered tip as well, but this is purely a matter of personal preference, as it’s entirely edible). Snap beans can be sautéed from the raw stage, or blanched first, either in boiling water or a steamer.

For boiling, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Submerge the beans in the boiling water for two or three minutes, then drain. At this point the beans can be tossed right into a hot skillet with olive oil, butter or bacon fat, or can be “shocked” in ice water to stop the cooking process, then sautéed at a later time. For steaming, set the beans in a steamer basket over an inch or so of boiling water. Steam for three or four minutes, then proceed as above.

For even a basic sauté, additions such garlic, toasted nuts, bacon bits or Parmesan work well. For a quick side dish with an Asian flair, sauté the beans in sesame oil with sesame seeds and hot chilies, then add a splash of soy sauce or oyster sauce to deglaze. Snap beans are also great dipped in tempura batter and deep fried. This can be done with blanched beans or from the raw stage for a crispier result.

For cold preparations, snap beans can be blanched for a shorter time and should definitely be shocked. In “Jasper White’s Cooking From New England,” chef Jasper White includes a simple salad of green beans, chopped mint, olive oil, black pepper, salt and lemon juice. He rightfully describes it as “utterly simple and very tasty,” but crisply blanched snap beans tossed with any vinaigrette and a handful of minced herbs yields a great summer side dish.

Shell beans require a little more work, as they must first be removed from the pod. Simply pull the pod apart at the inner seam and pop the beans out with thumb or forefinger. A pound of cranberry beans will yield 1–1½ cups of shelled beans and will take about 10 minutes to shell. They should be washed once they are shelled. For a simple side dish, boil cranberry beans in salted water for 15 to 20 minutes, or until tender enough to mash with a fork. Even plain, the little boiled beans taste like capsules of buttery, creamy mashed potatoes. Tossed with butter or olive oil, they are indescribably delicious.
One of the most traditional preparations for shell beans is succotash. Every region boasts its own version of this dish, which always consists of some combination of beans and corn. Some recipes call for fresh lima beans while others call for dried beans, and there are even a few recipes that call for green beans, but here in the New England, when folks think of succotash, it’s most certainly with cranberry beans in mind. For succotash, the beans are simmered with rendered bacon (or ham), corn, heavy cream and herbs until tender enough to mash with a fork, and served as a side dish. Below is a recipe for succotash salad, a fun twist on the tradition.  

Shell beans can be used in any recipe that calls for dried beans, but the cooking time and amount of liquid will of course be reduced. Evan Mallet of Lindbergh’s Crossing even deep fries cooked shell beans without batter, and they come out tasting like a cross between French fries and mashed potatoes. Like snap beans, shell beans are great in many cold preparations, tossed with your favorite dressing and any variety of diced vegetables and herbs.

succotash salad
recipe by Paula Sullivan

3 or 4 ears corn
3 cups freshly shelled cranberry beans (2 to 2 ½ lbs. in the pod)
6 slices thick-cut bacon, cooked crisp and crumbled
1 bell pepper (green or colored), diced
1 small red onion, diced
handful fresh herbs (parsley, basil, chives), chopped
¼ cup red wine vinegar
½ cup mayonnaise
salt and pepper, to taste
Bring a pot of water to a boil.  Cook the corn for 6 minutes. Remove corn from water (do not discard the water), and chill in ice bath. Drain well. Add the beans to the boiling water with a tablespoon of salt. Cook for 15 to 20 minutes, or until they are still holding their shape but are soft enough to mash with a fork. Drain the beans, chill in an ice bath, and drain well.  
Cut the corn off the cob and place in a large bowl with the well-drained beans. Add the remaining ingredients and toss well. Serves 6 to 8 as a side dish. Keeps, refrigerated, for two or three days.