WaterFire Providence sets the night on fire

A taste of life along the urban canals of Europe can be found by driving south from downtown Portsmouth for two hours. Woven into this sampling of Old World charm is the chance to see dusk, art and public alcohol consumption like never before. New climes can heighten experiences. In this case, though, it is not the place, but an unusual work of art that creates the transformation. 

WaterFire Providence is a sculpture installation that centers on a series of more than 100 blazing bonfires drifting on the surface of the three rivers that flow through Rhode Island’s capitol city. Set at dusk by gondoliers dressed in black, against a sonic backdrop of eclectic music emanating from speakers in the canals, the fires anchor an event supplemented by a street festival where food, drink, theater, dancing and architecture are seen—quite literally—in a new light. 

Staged just about every other weekend from Memorial Day through October, WaterFire is an ambitious and atmospheric experience created by artist Barnaby Evans. Since 1994, his vision of firelight and music in the darkness has combined with the city’s Venetian-style bridges and cobbled riverbank walkways to create a European feel in the heart of America’s smallest state.

With 400 miles of coastline winding from the gilded age of Gatsby’s Newport to the tranquil seal habitat at Narragansett Bay, a summer vacation in Rhode Island does not typically include a swing through Providence to take in the urban landscape. But this otherworldly, romantic and strikingly original event now draws thousands of visitors into the city each year.

Due to the growing crowds, there are some realities for guests to address before settling in for the magic of WaterFire. Finding an on-street parking space during these festivals uses up one’s annual allotment of parking karma. An easy alternative to trolling the alleys is the public lot at the Providence Place Mall (an enclosed plaza with more than 170 stores). It is located across the street from Waterplace Park, the basin where the festival begins—a prime spot to start the evening. There are Port-o-lets on most corners, and special events, such as dance lessons and origami crafts, differ from evening to evening. Check www.waterfire.com for listings.

Foods from around the world are available at tents and carts throughout downtown. New Hampshirites, who seldom experience the heady freedom of strolling through public places with an alcoholic beverage in hand, will enjoy stopping by the beer and wine tents.

Most enchanting for me was the discovery of acting troupe Ten31’s “living statuary” gargoyles at the World War I Monument near College and South Main streets. At the foot of the towering statue, these figures appear to be made of stone—until they start moving.

The beauty of these footnotes to the fires is that they combine to form a timeless, multi-sensory experience. The whole festival is a work of art, and by participating in it, the couples on the stone embankment and the revelers dancing in the streets all become part of the drama.

Note: Downtown Providence is 123 miles from downtown Portsmouth as the crow flies. WaterFire installations will take place on the following Saturdays: Sept. 1, 15 and 29, and Oct. 6 and 27. For more information, call 401-272-3111.